Pit Wheels to Peak: An 8-Mile Circular through West Cumbria’s Industrial Heart

​This 8-mile circular walk begins at Moor Row’s Dalzell Street bridge, following the historic "Iron Line" railway path. The route highlights West Cumbria’s industrial heritage, passing the engineered "Big Ship" of the River Keekle and the 12th-century St Leonard's Church in Cleator.

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The primary challenge is the steady ascent of Dent Fell via Black How Wood. The summit offers a stunning 360-degree vista spanning the Lake District peaks, the Scottish hills, and the Irish Sea. Returning via gentle forestry tracks and the "Hen Beck," the walk concludes by traversing the subterranean legacy of the Montreal mines.

• Distance: Approximately 8 miles. 
• Time: Allow 3.5 to 4.5 hours.
• Difficulty: Moderate.
• Start/Finish: Dalzell Street Bridge.

Dent Fell Illustration

The Walk

There is a particular kind of quiet that settles over the old railway lines of West Cumbria. Once the thundering arteries of the local iron ore industry, these paths now offer a peaceful corridor for walkers. This 8-mile circular walk begins in Moor Row, taking in ancient sites before ascending the rugged slopes of Dent Fell. 

• ​For a long time, I’ve looked up at our lofty neighbour with admiration, never quite finding the courage to take on the walk from my own doorstep. Today, however, that changed. My goal was to conquer Dent starting right from Moor Row, adding a bit of adventure to the journey.
• Don't misunderstand me - I have been up Dent fell numerous times and know its paths like the back of my hand. But I’ve always driven to the base. Actually walking the full circular route from my home offered a completely different perspective. I hope you enjoy this account; perhaps it will inspire you to leave the car behind and do the same.

​1. The Beginning

​The journey begins at the Dalzell Street bridge in Moor Row. Stepping onto the cycle path here, I'm walking the former trackbed of the Whitehaven, Cleator, and Egremont Railway. 

As I depart, I find myself imagining the old railway station in its heyday - steam engines huffing and passengers departing for destinations now lost to history. On my left, the modern houses of The Pastures estate emerge through the branches. It makes me wonder: did the Wildridge family ever imagine such a transformation for their land 300 years ago?

​My route takes me along the National Cycle path, past the historic site of Moor Row Pit Number One.

I soon encounter the sheer drop of the embankment, down to what is known as Stirling’s Big Ship. It’s a striking local landmark, named not for a seafaring vessel, but for the dark metal plates installed to protect the Montreal Mines' infrastructure.

The name makes perfect sense; the reinforced channel of the River Keekle, with its steep, straightened sides and metal or concrete lining, looks strikingly like the long, low-slung hull of a great vessel docked in the West Cumbrian soil.

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This wasn't built for aesthetics, but for survival. To prevent the Montreal and Crossfield Mines from being flooded by the river's natural wandering, the Keekle was confined to this industrial strait. Standing here today, you can still feel the scale of the Victorian ambition - transforming a natural waterway into a rigid, "armoured" channel to protect the riches of the iron ore mines below.

Stirlings Big Ship Illustration

Observations

• The "Hull" Effect: The sharp, clean lines of the fencing and the channel walls create that distinct nautical silhouette against the backdrop of the fells.
• The Industrial Scars: You can clearly see the contrast between the engineered riverbed and the surrounding landscape.
• Dent in the Distance: The "lofty neighbour" looms in the background of the image, just as it does on my walk today, providing a timeless anchor to the changing industrial scene in the foreground.

Walking this old railway line today, it’s hard to reconcile the stillness with the 'hive of activity' that once defined this ground. To my left and right, the sites of Pit 2, Pit 4, and Pit 5, and so on, serve as silent markers of a time when this was a landscape of iron and steam. Thousands of tons of ore once moved along this very path, yet today, the only sound is the wind in the trees. I’m struck by a sense of gratitude that nature has finally reclaimed its own, masking the industrial toil with a lush, green victory. 

It is staggering to imagine this tranquil path as the frantic heart of the Montreal Iron Ore Mines, a place where over 30 shafts once hummed with the constant roar of steam engines and the clatter of wagons. What was once a landscape defined by soot and the heavy extraction of hematite has been reclaimed by the silence of the countryside. There is a profound sense of peace in seeing how nature has eventually won, softening the industrial scars and turning a site of grit and toil into this beautiful, verdant corridor toward the fells.

​Cleator Comes Into View

Soon, I reach Cleator, heading past the fabulous Cricket Ground and old Vicarage, which is now a private residence. 

• The cricket ground sits as a remarkably picturesque contrast to the rugged industrial history of the "Big Ship" and the nearby mines. It is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful cricket settings in the county, framed by the backdrop of Dent Fell and the ancient St Leonard's Church. While it may look like a quiet village green, this ground belongs to a club that achieved one of the greatest feats in Cumbrian sporting history. In September 2013, Cleator Cricket Club rose to national prominence by winning the National Village Cup at Lord’s. 
• The Vicarage is a classic example of Victorian ecclesiastical architecture, designed to be substantial and imposing, reflecting the importance of the church in a community that was rapidly growing due to the nearby hematite mines.

After the Vicarage, I soon cross the River Keekle; it’s a calm, slow-running stream today, though I know only too well how quickly it can show its anger after a heavy downpour. Reaching the site of St Leonard’s Church, I’m struck by its 12th-century heritage. Its traditional bellcote stands as a silent witness to the village's life long before the first mine was ever sunk.

• 12th-Century Roots: While much of the current structure of St Leonard's reflects the 1872 Norman-Romanesque rebuild, the foundation dates back to the 1100s.
• The Bellcote: The church’s traditional bellcote is a striking landmark, serving as a reminder that Cleator was a settled community long before the industrial age transformed the skyline.

At The Foot Of Dent Fell, In Cleator

2. The Ascent

Leaving the quiet sanctuary of the church, I cross Main Street and pass over Black How Bridge. Turning left past the farmhouse, the path quickly changes character as I step into Black How Wood. This is where the real work begins.

​The climb up Dent Fell is the primary challenge of the day, a steady pull that demands respect. After navigating a section of felled trees, the landscape opens up, offering increasingly sweeping views over the Ehen Valley and out across the shimmering expanse of the Irish Sea.

Trees Are Being Felled. Follow All Instructions

I’ll admit, I’m huffing and puffing quite a bit; my fitness isn't quite what it used to be. While my legs feel strong enough, it’s my lungs that are doing the heavy lifting today. Every few minutes, I pause to catch my breath, using the excuse to turn around and admire how far I’ve come from the rooftops of Moor Row.

 Looking Back Towards Moor Row

After a solid 30 minutes of climbing, the gradient finally levels out and I reach the summit.

Close To The Summit

Wow. What a view! Looking out over the West Cumbrian coastline and the high peaks of the Lake District beyond, every bit of that lung-bursting climb was worth it.

The Summit of Long Barrow

​Reaching the top, the drama of the steep climb gives way to a wide, expansive space. Unlike the sharp peaks deeper in the Lake District, the summit of Dent, or Long Barrow as the fell is also known, is surprisingly level.

This allows you to wander across the heather-clad plateau, catching different perspectives of the landscape without the strain of further climbing.

• ​The Coastal Vista: To the west, the Irish Sea stretches out toward the Isle of Man, with the familiar landmarks of the West Cumbrian coast laid out like a map.
• Blackpool Tower: On a clear day, the distinct silhouette of Blackpool Tower can be seen as a tiny needle on the horizon. It is often easier to spot with binoculars or when the sun reflects off the sea behind it.
• The Fylde Coast: You are looking approximately 45–50 miles (70–80 km) south. You'll see the coastline curving away past the Ravenglass estuary toward the flat sands of the Fylde.
• The Mountain Guard: To the east, the flat foreground of the barrow makes the sudden rise of the high fells look even more imposing.
• The Solway Firth: The glittering expanse of water that separates England and Scotland. You can often see the white foam of the tide racing across the famous Solway mudflats.
• ​Whitehaven, Workington and Maryport: Looking along the Cumbrian coast, you’ll see the industrial towns of Whitehaven, Workington and Maryport, often marked by the sprawling wind farms that sit both on the land and out at sea.
• ​The Scottish Southern Uplands: Beyond Criffel, on exceptionally sharp days, you can see the distant, rolling silhouettes of the Scottish hills stretching into the horizon.
• ​The "North Western" Fells: Closer to home and slightly to the northeast, you can see the distinctive profiles of Grasmoor, Whiteside, and the Loweswater Fells (like Blake Fell and Gavel Fell). These fells act as the northern gateway to the high Lake District.
• A Place of Rest: After that lung-bursting 30-minute haul from Black How Wood, the flatness is a welcome relief, giving you the perfect spot to finally stop huffing and puffing and simply soak in that 360-degree vista!

It’s quite a contrast to have the industrial landmarks of Sellafield and Blackpool in one gaze, and the craggy peaks of Scafell Pike and Pillar in the other. It’s a wonderful reward for a walk that started right at my front door in Moor Row.

​3. The Descent

Rather than punishing my knees on the steep Uldale route, I opt for the main forestry track. It’s a far more "leg-friendly" descent, winding gently down the eastern side of the fell.

This route allows me to finally catch my breath and soak in the shifting views as the high moorland gives way to the deep greens of the plantation.

​Because this is an active forestry site, I make sure to keep a sharp eye out for any warning signs. The landscape here is ever-changing, shaped by modern timber work just as the lower ground was once shaped by the mines.

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Soon, the soft track gives way to the firm transition of the road. The descent continues steadily, leading me down towards the River Ehen - or as we locals affectionately call it, Hen Beck.

Hearing the sound of the water again feels like coming full circle, a signal that the lofty heights are now behind me and the familiar streets of home are just around the corner.

• ​The name Hen Beck is a wonderful piece of local dialect. While the Ehen is a significant river - flowing all the way from Ennerdale Water to the Irish Sea - this particular stretch near Cleator and Moor Row has always felt more like a "beck" to those who live alongside it.

As a child, I spent many an hour here with my parents, enjoying picnics and paddling in the shallows of the Ehen. It’s a strange and beautiful thing; time moves relentlessly forward, the mines have closed, and the landscape has healed, yet some things remain exactly the same.

​Watching children playing in the water today, I’m struck by the continuity of it all. They are finding the same joy in the "Hen Beck" that I did decades ago.

​4. Parkside and the Return

After crossing the River Ehen, I take on the final steep section of road, passing the home of Wath Brow Hornets. The rugby club is a local institution, a testament to the enduring community spirit.

​To my right lies the site of the former Wath Brow Mission Church. This modest building was immortalised by L.S. Lowry in his 1948 painting, The Mission Room, Wath Brow. Lowry, famous for his "matchstick men," was clearly captivated by the building’s distinctive, slender spire - a quirky architectural feature that became a local landmark. ​I carefully cross the road and headed east toward Parkside, taking in all the views. 

​5. The Iron Line

​​At the Parkside bridge, I swiftly crossed the busy road, head up a farm access-track, and rejoin the old railway line for the final leg of the journey. This flat, 3-mile stretch is a welcome relief for my tired legs, leading me back through the very heart of the old mining landscape.

​As I pass the site of the old Parkside Station, I spot a relic of a bygone era: an old railway shelter, still standing with its chimney poking defiantly through the roof. I can’t help but think of the station master or the track workers who once huddled there for warmth; it must have been a lonely, biting job on a cold West Cumbrian winter.

​It is a strange feeling to realise I am walking over a subterranean "honeycomb." Deep beneath my boots lie the silent galleries where the Montreal, Jacktrees, and Crowgarth mines once operated. The sheer volume of iron ore removed from this ground is staggering, leaving a hidden world of empty caverns beneath the modern path.

​The route takes me through Cleator Moor, following the historic Iron Line all the way back to my starting point at Dalzell Street bridge.

Close To Home, And A Welcoming Seat

Walk Summary

​The total distance for this circular route is approximately 8 miles. Depending on your pace and how long you spend exploring the "Big Ship," the 12th-century church, or simply soaking in the views from Dent Fell, you should allow between 3.5 and 4.5 hours to complete the loop. It’s a great mix of "lactic acid" hill work and steady aerobic recovery.

My Statistics

• Weather: Slightly overcast. 10°C
• Total Distance: 8.08 miles
• Total Time: 3:20:00
• Calories Burned: 1,234 kcal
• Total Steps: 18,358
• Average Moving Pace: 21:19 min/mile
• Total Ascent: 316 meters
• Heart Rate Peak: 151 bpm
• Estimated Sweat Loss: 2 litres

​I’ve looked at that fell from my window for years, but conquering it from my own front door has given me a whole new appreciation for our "lofty neighbour." I hope my journey inspires you to leave the car behind and discover the history hidden right on your doorstep. Go on. Do it now!