Moor Row: Starting the Adventure on Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk

The Coast to Coast (C2C) walk is one of the UK’s most celebrated long-distance paths, the brainchild of the legendary fellwalker and writer, Alfred Wainwright.

Spanning approximately 190 miles from the Irish Sea to the North Sea, it’s a trek filled with breathtaking landscapes, from the craggy peaks of the Lake District to the gentle undulations of the Yorkshire Wolds.

But every epic journey must begin somewhere, and for the traditional western start, that place is usually the unassuming Cumbrian village of St Bees.

Yet, the very first few miles - the section that takes you inland from the sea - often involves a necessary, but perhaps less-glamorous, stretch that takes you right through the former mining village of Moor Row.

• The Start: After dipping your boots in the Irish Sea at St Bees and picking up a pebble to carry to Robin Hood’s Bay (a lovely tradition!), the walk begins with a stunning, clifftop amble. The first sight of the coastline and the distant Isle of Man on a clear day is magnificent.
• The Turn Inland: After this initial dramatic flourish, the route quickly turns inland, and it’s here you start to encounter the legacy of West Cumbria’s industrial past.
• The Transition: Many walkers, eager to get into the 'proper' hills, view the initial stages as simply a means to an end. However, this early leg, which brings you past Moor Row, offers a unique and important perspective on the West Cumbrian landscape that Wainwright intended to showcase. 

Echoes Of The Past

Unlike the chocolate-box villages of the Lake District that follow-on, Moor Row is a place built on industry, specifically iron ore mining. The history of this area is crucial to understanding the social and economic fabric of Cumbria. While the mines are long closed, you can still feel the weight of this heritage:

• Railway Lines: You’ll often find yourself walking along former railway tracks - now peaceful paths - that once bustled with wagons carrying ore down to the coast for shipping.
• Terraced Houses: The village itself is characterised by the rows of terraced housing, built to accommodate the miners and their families. They stand in stark contrast to the scattered farmhouses you’ll see later in the walk.

It's a moment to pause and reflect on the thousands of people whose lives were inextricably linked to the earth beneath your feet, long before tourists arrived with walking poles and waterproofs.

Getting Through to the Fells

The section around Moor Row acts as a vital transition point. It’s flat, straightforward, and a great opportunity to:

• Settle In: Get used to the weight of your pack and break in those new boots.
• Pace Yourself: The mountains are coming! Use this gentle terrain to find your natural walking rhythm.
• Appreciate the Quiet: Despite its industrial history, once you're on the path and away from the main road, it's often surprisingly peaceful. 

Soon after passing this area, you'll be treated to the open moorland and farmland that signify your imminent arrival at Ennerdale Bridge - the first official overnight stop for many. From there, the mighty fells of the Lake District National Park begin in earnest.

Final Thoughts

The Moor Row section, while not boasting a peak or a famous tarn, is an authentic piece of the Coast to Coast jigsaw.

It’s the essential stepping stone between the roaring sea and the rising mountains. It offers a crucial glimpse into the working life of West Cumbria, a history that Wainwright, a man who deeply valued the whole landscape, would have certainly wanted modern-day walkers to acknowledge.

So, when you pass Moor Row, don't just rush through. Take a moment to appreciate the ground you are covering. And, do speak to the locals - it’s where the adventure truly begins!

Walking The Coast To Coast Illustration