Lost in Moor Row? A Coast to Coast Walker's Guide

Every year, thousands of boots tramp the 192 miles from St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay. But before you can conquer the mighty fells of the Lake District or the moody moors of North Yorkshire, you have to face a slightly different challenge: The Village of Moor Row.

It is a known phenomenon among Coast to Coast walkers. You’ve just left the dramatic red cliffs of St Bees, your legs are fresh, and spirits are high. Then, you hit the West Cumbrian plain. Suddenly, groups of walkers are seen wandering in circles, maps flapping in the breeze, debating whether a mischievous local has sent them towards Egremont instead of Cleator (pronounced klee-ter).
  • Navigating this small village shouldn't be the hardest part of your first day. 
Moor Row Coast To Coast Statue
Coast To Coast Statue

To save you from adding unnecessary miles on your first leg, here is your definitive guide to the two choices you face: the Traditional Village Route or the Picturesque Cycle Path.

The Split

After navigating the fields from Sandwith and passing under the railway tunnel near Stanley Pond, you will reach your decision point. Here, you will decide whether to walk on the cycle path or follow the traditional route. 

Head Up The Track, Or Up The Steps
Head Up The Lane, Or Up The Steps

OPTION 1

The traditional route. Best for: Purists, statue hunters, and those who want to stick rigidly to the guidebook. If you are following the classic Wainwright route, you will head straight into the village.

The A595: Head up the lane, and you will soon reach the busy A595 road. Once you have safely crossed the road, you are standing at the gateway to Moor Row.
  • For food, and water, don't cross the road, but head right, uphill, to Bigrigg (0.6 mile). There, you will find a Spar supermarket. Return to continue your walk. 
The Statue: Keep an eye out, at the start of the village for the Coast to Coast sculpture and mileage marker. It’s a rite of passage for many walkers to snap a photo here to mark the start of the journey inland.

The Village Walk: Follow the road (Scalegill Road) through the village. It’s a tarmac trudge, but it’s straightforward. As you walk up the road, Dent Fell will come into view. When you reach the war memorial, follow the road, left. 

Walk Along Scalegill Road
Walk Along Scalegill Road 

The Turn: Continue until you reach the Church Street/Dalzell Street junction. Here you will see a traditional Cumberland finger-post sign. Turn to the right, and head out of the village. Take note of Watterson's Garage on your left. This building is a remnant of the old Mineral Railway which threaded a route behind the garage. Be careful on the road, as there is no pavement. Look for a field-edge footpath on your left.

Moor Row Watterson's Garage Illustration
Watterson's Garage

Look Our For The Sign!
Look Out For The Sign! 

The Footpath: Follow the footpath through two fields. In spring, wheat is usually planted in the first field, so please stay at the edge. Better views of Dent Fell will open up as you walk along. If you scan left, you'll also see the Ennerdale Fells, along with glimpses of Cleator Moor. 

Views Of Dent Fell Will Open Up
Views Of Dent Fell Will Open Up

The Arrival: Head through the two kissing gates, then straight ahead for around ten yards. The path now drops you down towards the Cleator Cricket Club and St Leonard’s Church, via Wainwright’s Passage.

Go Straight Ahead, Then Left
Go Straight Ahead, Then Left

OPTION 2

The Scenic Route (The Cycle Path). Best for: Nature lovers, those hating road walking, and anyone wanting a fairly flat, impossible-to-get-lost warmup.

If you want to avoid the pavement pounding of the village streets, this is the superior choice. You are utilising a section of Hadrian’s Cycleway (NCN 72), which runs along the old railway line.

Join the Path: Instead of walking up the lane towards the busy A595, look for the entrance to the cycle path (behind you). Head left, uphill. The path runs parallel to the village.

Pass under Needless Bridge - it was named after Needless Beck. The bridge was built by John Naylor (as were the other two bridges in the village). 

Head Under Needless Bridge
Head Under Needless Bridge

Look Out For Remnants Of The Railway

Pass Under The Beehive Bridge, Continuing Up
Pass Under The Beehive Bridge, Continuing Up

This route is traffic-free, relatively flat, and tree-lined. It’s often quieter and features various artworks and sculptures celebrating the area's mining history. Keep an eye out for them, as some are well hidden. 

Soon, you will catch glimpses of the Blake Fell (on the left), and Dent Fell, to the right. Shortly afterwards, you will reach the Dalzell Street bridge, which was the scene of a 1955 railway accident. Continue straight ahead, passing the old railway platform. 

Dalzell Street Bridge
Dalzell Street Bridge

Follow The Former Railway Line
Follow The Former Railway Line

Head along the cycle route (NCN7) until you arrive at the NCN 72 junction. Turn right, and then a quick left. 
  • For food, and water, continue towards Cleator Moor (NCN 7). There, you will find a Greggs bakery (0.7 mile). Return to continue your walk. 
Head Right, And Then A Quick Left
Head Right, And Then A Quick Left

Pass Over The Footbridge
Pass Over The Footbridge

Views Of Dent Fell Will Come Into View
Views Of Dent Fell Will Come Into View

The Exit: Stay on the path until you reach the exit for Cleator. Don't worry if you miss this exit - there is another 30 yards away. You will hop off the old railway line and head down towards the Cleator Cricket Club, exactly where the village route would have deposited you.

Head Left, Off The Cycle Path
Head Left, Off The Cycle Path

All Roads Lead to Cleator

Whichever route you choose, both will converge at Cleator, right near the cricket ground and St Leonard’s Church.

From here, the "warm-up" is officially over.

You’ll cross Cleator Main Street, head towards the River Ehen, over Black How Bridge, and begin the gruelling but rewarding ascent of Dent Fell. So, don't worry about getting lost in Moor Row. Choose your path, enjoy the West Cumbrian hospitality, and save your energy for the climb ahead. Don't be afraid to ask for directions. 

Happy Hiking!
  • The sculpture in Moor Row that marks the start of the Coast to Coast route is an artwork by the Cumbrian sculptor Colin Telfer (1938–2016).
  • It is known as 'The Hiker' or the 'Coast-to-Coast Walk Statue', depicting a figure, often interpreted as Alfred Wainwright himself, marking the start of the journey.
  • Colin Telfer created the statue using a mixture of resin and local dust (haematite).
  • The sculpture was erected in 2007.
Location: Moor Row CA24, UK

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ARCHIVE HIGHLIGHTS

About Moor Row

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